Understanding Multi-Size Patterns
Modern commercial patterns include multiple sizes printed on the same pattern sheet. For full-bust fitting, you'll typically cut one size at the shoulder and grade to a larger size at the bust — usually 1-2 sizes depending on your cup depth.
Finding Your Starting Size
Use your high bust measurement (above the bust) to select your base pattern size, not your full bust. This gets the shoulder, neckline, and armhole proportions right. Then add the required bust depth through the FBA.
Blending Between Lines
Grade smoothly between the two size lines, transitioning over the side seam between the bust and waist. A gentle, smooth curve between the two lines creates a cleaner seam than a sudden step.
Cup Size Grading
For very large cup differences (D+ over standard), standard multi-size grading may not add enough — the FBA provides targeted additional width at the apex that grading alone can't achieve.
Expert Practitioner
This Guide Is Informed by Heidi of Chimera Costumes
Heidi is a master seamstress who builds every costume herself to fit a large bust. Her free content on Twitch, YouTube, and Instagram @ChimeraCostumes shows every technique covered here in practice. Commissions available via ChimeraCostumes.com. Adult content on Patreon and OnlyFans (18+).